Masai Mara National Reserve

Located in the far southwest of Kenya in the Great Rift Valley, the Masai Mara National Reserve is the country’s flagship park. It’s a vast wilderness of abundant big game, spectacular landscapes, and the scene of one of the planet’s most dramatic wildlife migration.

The reserve is named after the Maasai people, a semi-nomadic tribe of pastoralists who have long inhabited the region, and their word to describe this landscape – “mara” – which means “spotted” – is a reference to the trees and bushes, as well as the shadows of passing clouds, that dot the plains.

The Masai Mara was established in 1961 as a wildlife sanctuary. Today, it encompasses an area greater than 370 000 acres, with no fences between the park and the Serengeti National Park’s neighboring wilderness across the border in Tanzania.

A Masai Mara safari experience is one of the best ways to see wildlife: the concentrations of game here are astounding.

Resident in the reserve is the Big Five (although not many rhinos, and they’re hard to spot), as well as vast herds of plains game, hippos, and crocodiles in the rivers and more than 500 species of birds.

The reserve is particularly famous for its big cats – lions, leopards, and cheetahs – and the nature documentary BBC’s Big Cat Diary was shot on the reserve’s plains.

While the wildlife viewing at almost any time of the year is superb, the Masai Mara is best visited during the months of the Great Migration.

This is when millions of zebras, wildebeest, and gazelle make their way north into the park from the Serengeti, crossing the Mara River in search of fresh grazing.

Watching vast herds of animals on the move, as well as the thrilling kills by the big cats that pursue them, is one of the most exciting Masai Mara safari experiences you can have, and it’s no wonder that the Great Migration is the top of most safari travelers’ bucket lists.

Apart from wildlife, the landscapes of the Masai Mara are stunningly beautiful: the classic Out of Africa backdrops of seemingly never-ending savanna studded with photogenic acacia trees are jaw-dropping.

To the west, the park is bordered by the Oloololo Escarpment, a dramatic plateau, while the rest of the park consists of rolling grasslands, acacia woodlands, riverine forests, and rocky hills.

Two major rivers – the Talek and the Mara – cut through the Masai Mara National Reserve, splitting it into three sectors: the Sekenani Sector, which lies to the east of the Talek River, the Musiara Sector, which is sandwiched between the two rivers, and the Mara Triangle, which is west of the Mara River.

The Narok County Council controls the Musiara and Sekenani sectors. At the same time, the more remote Mara Triangle is administered by a non-profit conservancy company, the Trans Mara County Council.

Musiara Sector offers excellent game viewing in the Musiara Marsh and some of the most spectacular wildebeest crossings at the Mara River. In the southeast of the park (and bordered by the Sand, Talek, and Mara Rivers), the Central Plains make up the largest part of the reserve.

The expansive grasslands of the Central Plains attract vast herds of plains animals, especially during the Great Migration from August to October, when the area is also famed for exciting big cat sightings.

Within the Central Plains, the savanna of Paradise Plain is prime cheetah territory, while Rhino Ridge is ideal for black-backed jackals, spotted hyenas, and bat-eared foxes.

Head to Lookout Hill for incredible panoramas of the Olpunyaia Swamp and sightings of hippos and for scenes of wildebeest crossing the river during the months of the migration.

As the closest area to Nairobi and with a vast number of lodges, hotels, and camps, the Central Plains is the most popular area of the reserve for tourists.

The Masai Mara’s rivers are home to hippos, massive Nile crocodiles, and many species of waterbirds. At the same time, the Mara River, which winds its way through the national reserve, plays host to huge pods of hippos and the dangerous crossings of wildebeest during the Great Migration.

Highlights of the Masai Mara National Reserve

An excellent introduction to the reserve’s varied grassland, woodland, and wetland habitats is provided by dawn hot air balloon safaris offered by almost all the lodges.

Over August and October, hot air balloon trips can also provide an astonishing vulture’s-eye view of the migrating wildebeest herds.

The Big Five are all present and seen with varying degrees of ease. Elephants are very common, as are buffaloes, the latter being the favored prey of the reserve’s huge lion prides, which often number 15 or more adults.

Leopards are more elusive but quite easy to locate if you know where to look, and while numbers of Black rhinos dropped alarmingly in the late 20th century, up to three dozen individuals still survive.

The rhino population here is the only one in Kenya that can be regarded as fully indigenous, with a gene pool (as yet) undiluted by translocated individuals from southern Africa or of mixed origin.

Even outside of the Great migration safari season, ungulates are well represented. There’s no better place for close-up views of Eland, the world’s largest antelope, which seems less skittish here than in most areas. Also likely to be seen are giraffe, impala, gazelle, Topi, Coke’s hartebeest, reedbuck, Defassa waterbuck, hippo, and warthog.

The Mara provides a fine introduction to East Africa’s savanna birdlife, with more than 500 species recorded in and around its borders, including such perennial favorites as Lilac-breasted roller, Superb starling, and Little bee-eater. Which makes this the perfect destination for photographic safaris in Kenya.

Large ground birds such as ostrich, Southern ground hornbill, Kori bustard, and the localized Denham’s bustard are also common. The riparian forest along the Mara and Talek Rivers is an essential habitat for niche species such as Ross’s turaco, Schalow’s turaco, and Grey kestrel.

The drama of the wildebeest migration is encapsulated by the multiple river crossings that punctuate the great herds’ three-month tenure in the Masai Mara.

The river crossings usually start in August, when the wildebeest disperse into the plains surrounding the Mara River and continue regularly until the southward migration begins in October.

The wildebeest tend to stick to a few favored crossing points; the four used with greatest regularity lie along a 5km (3,1mi) stretch of river, meaning it’s pretty easy to keep tabs on any pending crossing.

Bounded by the Mara River to the east and Oloololo Escarpment to the northwest, the Mara Triangle is an untrammeled westerly wedge that forms part of the national reserve. Still, it has been managed by a non-profit management company, the Mara Conservancy, since 2001.

The Mara Triangle offers a similar standard of game viewing to the rest of the national reserve, but it’s easier to escape the congestions of safari vehicles that tend to congregate around wildlife sightings east of the river, especially during the migration season.

The national reserve is bordered by a cluster of private concessions and ranches, most of which are leased from or owned by local Maasai communities and serviced by a handful of small, tented camps that share exclusive traversing rights.

The significant advantage of staying in one of these concessions is that, even more so than the Mara triangle, there is very little tourist traffic, so you are more likely to have sightings all to yourself. Many concessions also offer guided game walks and night drives, both of which are forbidden in the reserve proper.

Practical Advice for the Masai Mara National Reserve

• The easiest and most comfortable option is a fly-in safari package from Nairobi. This can be arranged through any reputable operator as a standalone safari or as part of a longer countrywide itinerary.
• Road safaris from Nairobi generally work out to be cheaper, but it’s worth bearing in mind that the bumpy six-hour drive will consume a significant proportion of your time and energy in either direction.
• There is no shortage of lodges and camps scattered in and around the Masai Mara. Unfortunately, this means that the reserve has acquired a reputation for being touristy and overcrowded, especially at the busiest times of the year.
• When you book a lodge, be aware that crowding tends to be most extreme in the sector southeast of the Talek River and its confluence with the Mara.
• The central sector, cupped between the Talek and Mara, tends to be quieter. Still, the best lodges for those seeking an authentic bush experience are those in the westerly Mara Triangle and private concessions and ranches outside the park.

Amboseli National Park

A long-standing highlight of Kenya’s safari circuit, 392 km2 (151 square mile), Amboseli was set aside as a wildlife reserve in 1899 and made a national park in 1974.

Renowned for its high density of elephants, the park forms the unfenced core of an 8,000 km2 (3088 square mile) ecosystem that includes large tracts of Maasai community land both in Kenya and across the border in Tanzania.

Amboseli National Park lies at the northern base of Mount Kilimanjaro and, cloud permitting, offers tremendous opportunities to photograph plains wildlife below the snow-capped peak of Africa’s tallest mountain.

Highlights of Amboseli National Park

The 5,891m (19327ft) summit of Kilimanjaro – the world’s tallest freestanding mountain and Africa’s highest peak – actually stands within Tanzania. Still, the finest views of it are to be had from Amboseli.

For much of the day, the volcanically formed mountain is rendered invisible by a shroud of clouds, but this usually lifts at dusk and dawn to reveal the iconic snow-capped peak rising a total 5km (3,1mi) above the dusty plains in all its breathtaking glory.

A dominating blue presence on maps of the park, the eponymous Lake Amboseli only holds water briefly in years of exceptional rainfall.

The rest of the time, this flat dry dust bowl supports large numbers of wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, and various exotic birds. The exotic birds you can expect to include the Secretary bird, Yellow-necked spurfowl, and the localized Pangani longclaw.

Scattered stands of umbrella thorn woodland, dominated by the distinctive flat-topped Acacia tortilis, are home to giraffe, impala, and a host of striking dry-country birds, notably Von der Decken’s hornbill, red-and-yellow barbet, rosy-patched bushshrike, and steel-blue whydah.

The permanent Enkongo Narok and Olokenya Swamps, fed by underground streams that rise on the upper slopes of Kilimanjaro, are home to plentiful hippos and a wide range of aquatic birds, among them long-toed lapwing, painted snipe, great white pelican, and grey crowned-crane.

Another must-see landmark is Observation Hill, which offers panoramic views across a pretty lake towards Tanzania, with Kilimanjaro often visible at dusk and dawn.

Amboseli’s most famous and entertaining mammalian residents are the subjects of the Amboseli Elephant Research Project, founded in 1975 by Dr. Cynthia Moss and retains detailed records of most births, deaths, and relationships within an extended community of around 50 families, whose range centers on the national park.

As a result of this close monitoring, the elephants of Amboseli are unusually well-habituated and contain a high proportion of old tuskers – excellent sightings are all but guaranteed.

The core national park is surrounded by several private conservancies that comprise Maasai community land and offer exclusive traversing rights to one or two small camps or lodges.

The conservancies support several species seldom observed within the national park, for instance, Gerenuk and Lesser kudu, and the ability to head off-road allows guests to make the most of cheetah and lion sightings.

Practical Advice for an Amboseli Safari

• Coming by road, Amboseli is 230km (143mi) from Nairobi via Namanga, a drive that includes some heavily corrugated sections and takes about five hours in either direction.
• Road safaris in Kenya often combine Amboseli with Tsavo West National Park, which lies about 120km (75mi) away along a poor dirt road.
• It is also possible to fly into Amboseli from the likes of Nairobi, Mombasa, and the Masai Mara.
• Several safari lodges lie within the national park, and some excellent upmarket tented camps service the surrounding conservancies.

Laikipia Plateau

Dominated by livestock ranches in the colonial era, the vast Laikipia Plateau has since been transformed into one of East Africa’s finest and most exclusive wildlife destinations.

Indeed, this mosaic of several dozen private and community-owned sanctuaries, overseen by the non-profit Laikipia wildlife Foundation, now operates as Kenya’s second-largest conservancy after Tsavo, comprising 9,500km2 (3668 square miles) in total.

Ecologically, the plateau is transitional to the central highlands and northern deserts. It provides an essential stronghold for rarities such as Grevy’s zebra, Black rhino, and African wild dog.

It also supports substantial numbers of lions, leopards, cheetahs, and dry-country specials such as Reticulated giraffes, Greater and Lesser kudu, Gerenuk and Beisa oryx.

Although the plateau forms a cohesive and jointly managed ecological entity, the individual ranches and conservancy lodges all operate as self-contained tourist destinations.

Most offer an all-inclusive tour package similar to those associated with the famous private game reserves bordering South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Activities include expertly guided game drives, and some conservancies also offer night drives, guided walks, and horseback safari excursions.

Highlights of Laikipia Plateau

The 365km2 (140 square mile) Ol Pejeta is the most accessible of the Laikipia conservancies and the only one that welcomes day visitors. It flanks the upper reaches of the Ewaso Nyiro River at the southern end of the plateau, only 25km (15,5mi) from Nanyuki.

One of the most crucial rhino sanctuaries in East Africa, it also supports elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, cheetah, reticulated giraffe, Jackson’s hartebeest, Beisa oryx, gerenuk, and 500-plus bird species.

In addition to guided drives and walks, activities include lion tracking with researchers and visits to traditional villages.

Situated within Ol Pejeta, Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary was established in 1993 to protect orphans formerly housed at the Jane Goodall Institute in Burundi.

Since chimpanzees are not indigenous to Kenya, it’s the only place in the country where these charismatic apes can be seen on a Kenya Safari tour, ideally by taking a boat trip along the Ewaso Nyiro River, which runs through the riparian forest where they now live.

A former cattle ranch reconstituted as a non-profit wildlife sanctuary in 1983, the 263km2 (102 square mile) Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is one of the oldest reserves in Laikipia and relatively accessible by car.

It’s a crucial stronghold for the endangered Grevy’s zebra, supporting around 400 individuals. It also provides sanctuary to significant numbers of Black and White rhinos and an easily spotted population of the localized Sitatunga antelope. Other wildlife includes elephant, lion, leopard, Spotted hyena, and a semi-resident pack of African wild dogs.

Remote and pristine, Northern Laikipia is carved up into a patchwork of community and private conservancies fronting the spectacular Ewaso Nyiro Gorge. The bush here is thicker and scrubbier than it is in the south, and while the Big Five are all present, densities are pretty low.

As a result, lodges tend to focus more on walking safari than on motorized game viewing, making it an ideal bush retreat at the end of a longer safari in Kenya and offering an opportunity to concentrate on smaller mammals and exceptional birdlife.

Maralal, the informal capital of the Samburu people and gateway town to remote Lake Turkana, is perched at an altitude of 1,965m (6447ft) on the northern edge of the Laikipia Plateau. Its annual Camel Derby, held over the second weekend in August, is popular with residents and foreign visitors to Kenya.

Travel Tips for Laikipia Plateau

Private lodges in Laikipia mainly cater to the top end of the luxury Kenya safari market. Their standard package is an all-inclusive package that covers transportation, meals, activities, and, in some cases, drinks.

Coming from Nairobi, or elsewhere for that matter, the standard procedure would be to catch a scheduled flight from Wilson Airport to Nanyuki Airport, from which Ol Pejeta and Lewa Wildlife Conservancy are both relatively accessible by road. More remote lodges are usually reached by light aircraft charter.

Mombasa and Surrounds

Mombasa is steeped in history. Kenya’s largest port and second most populous city, it was first mentioned by name by the 12th-century Arab geographer Al Idrisi, who described it as a prosperous trade emporium selling spices, gold, and ivory to ships from Arabia and Asia.

Today, the bustling island-bound city center is overlooked by the imposing Portuguese-built Fort Jesus. Its languid older quarters possess an organic layout and historical feel rare in more modern cities.

For all its commercial and historical importance, Mombasa is not so much a tourist focus as a funnel through which most visitors pass en route to the suburban resort cluster of Nyali, Kenyatta, Bamburi, and Shanzu, or to Diana Beach 30km (19mi) to the south.

Inevitably, beach and marine activities dominate in this part of Kenya, but the underrated Shimba Hills National Reserve provides an excellent destination for those seeking a quick wildlife fix.

Highlights of Mombasa and its Surrounds

With thick seaward walls and turrets rising a full 16m (52ft) above the coral foundation, Fort Jesus has cut an imposing figure above Mombasa’s old town harbor since it was constructed by the Portuguese in the 1590s.

For centuries afterward, it was the most strategically important building on the East African Coast, changing hands more than a dozen times before its occupation by the British in 1895.

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fort has more-or-less retained its original plan and incorporates a museum housing an impressive collection of artifacts unearthed during excavations, ranging from Chinese porcelain to Arabic pottery.

A panel of wall paintings executed by an unknown Portuguese sailor sometime before 1639 can be seen in situ. Overlooking the old harbor north of Fort Jesus, Mombasa Old Town is the city’s oldest continuously settled district, and several of its mosques were founded in medieval times.

It comprises narrow alleys lined by two- and three-story Victorian buildings adorned with oriental-influenced fretwork balconies, carved window frames, and Zanzibar doors.

It’s a lovely area to stroll around, infused with a striking sense of community. A post-millennial facelift has seen many once-dilapidated buildings restored as galleries, boutiques, or characterful juice and coffee shops.

The most popular beach destination near Mombasa, Diani is a long and idyllic stretch of palm-fringed white sand, lapped by calm, warm waters protected by an offshore reef.

Despite being the focal point of a holiday in Kenya’s all-inclusive beach package scene, Diani’s beach remains blissfully uncrowded by Mediterranean standards, and there’s some fine offshore diving and snorkeling on offer.

It holds plenty of interest for wildlife lovers too. Relict patches of coastal forest are home to Sykes, Vervet, and Angola colobus monkeys, along with striking forest birds such as Trumpeter hornbill and Schalow’s turaco.

Only 30km (19mi) inland of Diani, the underrated Shimba Hills National Reserve is an excellent destination for a day or overnight luxury safari in Kenya.

The only Kenyan stronghold of the handsome Sable antelope is also home to giraffe, zebra, warthog, elephant, buffalo, and leopard.

The reserve also protects a patch of coastal forest inhabited by Angola colobus monkey, blue duiker, Red-bellied coast squirrel, and Green-headed oriole. For a leg stretch, take the two-hour guided hike from Elephant Lookout to the 21m (69ft) high Sheldrick Falls.

A popular day trip from Diani, Wasini Island is known for its so-called ‘Coral Garden’, a bleakly attractive landscape of partly exposed coral outcrops, sand flats, and mangroves that can be explored from a boardwalk managed as a community project by a local women’s group.

Immediately north of Mombasa, the 8km (5mi) stretch of coast running from Nyali to Kenyatta Beaches is less resort-like than Diani but still hosts some excellent beach hotels, and glass-bottomed boat excursions into Mombasa Marine National Reserve are on offer.

Bombolulu Workshops is an admirable non-profit craft center that creates employment for more than 150 disabled people and sells a wide variety of handcrafted items in its on-site shop.

Slotting in somewhere between a zoo and a safari park, family-friendly Haller Park comprises a reclaimed and reforested limestone quarry that can be explored along a 90-minute nature trail. Large enclosures contain wildlife such as giraffes, hippos, buffalo, and various antelope.

Practical Advice for Mombasa and Surrounds

• Central Mombasa stands on a 5.3km2 (2 square mile) island connected to the north coast by the 400m (1312ft) Nyali Bridge, the interior by the short Makupa Causeway, and the south coast by the Likoni Ferry across Kilindini Harbour.
• Most visitors arrive by air at Moi International Airport (MBA), which is serviced by a steady stream of domestic flights to/from Nairobi and elsewhere and by half-a-dozen international carriers.
• The airport is situated around 10km (6,2mi) from the city center via Makupa Causeway, and travelers heading to or from Diani need to allow sufficient time to pass through the city center and wait for the Likoni Ferry.
• Another popular way to travel between Nairobi and Mombasa is by train, following the so-called Lunatic Express constructed in the 1890s.
• Dozens of tour operators in Mombasa and Diani offer day trips further afield to the likes of Shimba Hills and Wasani Island. Car rental services are also widely available.
• There is no shortage of accommodation in and around Mombasa.  The main clusters of beach resorts are at Diani and Nyali, while accommodation in Mombasa tends to be more low-key, with the most attractive options being found in and around the Old Town.

Mount Kenya and Aberdares

Very different in character to the rest of the country, the lushly vegetated and densely populated central highlands that stretch northward from Nairobi are capped by the hemisphere-straddling Mount Kenya and its permanent equatorial glaciers.

Rising to 5,199m, Mount Kenya is the second-tallest in Africa, topped only by Kilimanjaro, and it is linked to the more westerly 3,999m Aberdare Range by an elevated grassy saddle.

Oddly, these two massifs represent extremes of geological antiquity. Where the contorted folds of the Aberdares rank among the most ancient in East Africa, dating to before the Age of Dinosaurs, Mount Kenya is an extinct volcano that erupted into existence several million years after our earliest bipedal ancestors first strode across the Rift Valley floor.

Mount Kenya and the Aberdares are both protected within a national park. They also share many ecological affinities, and collectively support most of the country’s surviving Afro-montane Forest and Afro-alpine moorland, the latter an otherworldly landscape of open moorland studded with bizarre giant forms of heather, lobelia and groundsel.

The two mountains host an outstandingly varied fauna, including all the Big Five alongside more localised forest specialists such as Sykes monkey, black and white colobus, Harvey’s red duiker, mountain antelope and giant forest hog.

Though not as popular as Kilimanjaro, the multi-day hike to Point Lenana – at 4,985m, the highest point on Mount Kenya accessible without specialist climbing equipment – leads through a similar spectrum of attitudinally-determined Afromontane vegetation zones.

And while it may appeal less to peak-baggers, Mount Kenya has the advantages of being less crowded, less expensive, and less likely to be treated as a single-minded exercise in summiting.

The highest two points on Mount Kenya at 5,199m and 5,188m respectively, Batian and Nelion Peaks are highly alluring to experienced climbers with specialist equipment.

Aberdare National Park is best known as the site of the tree hotels Treetops and The Ark, stilted timber monoliths which double as overnight hides overlooking forest-fringed water holes that attract a steady stream of wildlife, including elephant and black rhino.

Historic Treetops gained overnight fame in 1952 when it hosted the young Princess Elizabeth on the very night that her father King George VI died, and she became the uncrowned Queen of the United Kingdom.

Conceptually similar to the tree hotels of the Aberdares, Serena Mountain Lodge, the only hotel set in Mount Kenya’s forest zone, provides an excellent introduction to highland fauna.

It overlooks a waterhole that occasionally attracts all the Big Five, as well as forest specialists such as giant forest hog, bushpig, Sykes monkey, black-and-white colobus monkeys, silvery-cheeked hornbill and Hartlaub’s turaco.

Game drives in Aberdare National Park follow little-used network of rough 4×4-only roads from the forest zone into an Afro-montane moorland punctuate with lovely waterfalls.

Wildlife includes black rhino, elephant, buffalo, giant forest hog and various monkeys. The Aberdares is one of the few places in Africa where melanistic (all black) leopards are regular.

The forests support one of only two remaining wild populations of the mountain bongo Tragelaphus eurycerus isaaci – a beautifully marked and Critically Endangered large forest antelope that is now effectively endemic to Kenya having become extinct elsewhere in its range.

Kenya’s highest town, Nyahururu is perched at 2,360m on the edge of the Laikipia Plateau alongside the attractive Thomson’s Falls, which plummet 75m over a volcanic ledge into a forested gorge inhabited by black and white colobus monkeys and a varied selection of birds.

The Private Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy is a wildlife orphanage that operates several important conservation projects, none more so than rehabilitation of a herd of captive-born mountain bongos for release into the forests of Mount Kenya, where it was last seen in the wild in 1994.

Founded in 1970 as a breeding centre for rhinos, Solio Game Ranch is a private conservancy situated on the grassy highland saddle that links Mount Kenya to the Aberdares.

Starting with a combined introduced population of 39, it now hosts at least 50 black and 85 white rhinos. In addition, more than 100 individuals born at Solio have been translocated to other locations in Kenya.

Travel Tips for Mount Kenya and Aberdares

• All the sites listed above can be reached in up to four hours from Nairobi along well surfaced roads through Thika. Regular domestic charter flights connect Nairobi and the Masai Mara to Nanyuki Airport, from where it is a short drive to most sites of interest in the vicinity of Mount Kenya and the Aberdares.
• Hikes on Mount Kenya are best arranged with specialist operators who know the mountain well and employs experienced guides and porters. The shortest option for a a round hike is three days, but it is advisable to spend at least three nights on the mountain before ascending Lenana to minimise the effects of altitude.
• Any of the region’s three tree hotels – Treetops, The Ark or Serena Mountain Lodge – makes for a great overnight stop on road safaris between the Masai Mara or Rift Valley and Laikipia, Samburu-Buffalo Springs, Shaba or Meru.
• In addition to these upmarket lodges, medium-large highland towns such as Nyeri, Nanyuki, Nyahururu, Meru and Embu all have a few adequate restaurants and hotels. They also offer the opportunity to draw money or do some last-minute grocery shopping before heading out on safari.

Northwest Safari Circuit

The vast swathe of Kenya that runs north from Nairobi towards the remote border with Ethiopia is characterized by geographic extremes.
On the one hand, the cool and fertile central highland rise towards the 5,199m (17,057ft) peak of Mount Kenya, not only Africa’s second-tallest mountain but sufficiently lofty to actually support glaciers less than 15km (9,3mi) south of the equator.

By contrast, the hostile plains that stretch north from Mount Kenya rank among the most arid and barren of sub-Sahelian landscapes, supporting a thin population of nomadic peoples who eke out a living as traditional pastoralists.

These contrasting landscapes offer some of Kenya’s most nuanced and varied game viewing. Admittedly, there’s nothing quite on the scale of the Masai Mara.

Still, the remote and rugged likes of Meru National Park, Samburu-Buffalo Springs National Reserve, and the private ranches of Laikipia support a fascinating array of dry-country wildlife. At the same time, the highlands around Mount Kenya are rich in forest wildlife.

Overall, the northwest will perhaps be less rewarding to first-time Kenya safari goers than the more famous southern circuit. Still, it arguably has more to offer repeat African visitors when it comes to unusual wildlife encounters and a genuine wilderness experience.

Highlights of the Northwest Kenya Safari Circuit

Protecting Africa’s second-tallest mountain, Mount Kenya National Park is also Kenya’s most popular destination for multi-day hikes. For ordinary hikers, the usual goal is the 4,985m (16,355ft) high point Lenana, but peak-baggers with suitable climbing experience and gear can head all the way up to the 5,199m (17,057ft) Batian Peak.

Weather permitting, the landscapes – from lush rainforest to stark equatorial glaciers – are stunning. Set in the forest zones of Mount Kenya and nearby Aberdare National Park, a trio of hide-like tree hotels such as Serena Mountain Lodge, Treetops, and The Ark offer a unique overnight game-viewing experience.

These lodges overlook water holes that regularly attract some or all of the Big Five and a host of secretive forest dwellers. The attractive Thomson’s Falls stands alongside Kenya’s highest town Nyahururu.

Solio Game Ranch, set on the grassy highland saddle between Mount Kenya and the Aberdares, operates Kenya’s most important breeding program for Black and White rhinos.

The vast Laikipia Plateau protects a patchwork of private and community-owned sanctuaries that offer exclusive all-inclusive safari packages focussing not only on the Big Five but also on rarities such as Grevy’s zebra and Black rhino.

At many ranches, game drives are supplemented by a more varied menu of night drives, guided walks, and horseback safaris.

Set on the arid plains north of Mount Kenya, the Samburu-Buffalo Springs-Shaba complex of national reserves protects a harsh environment alleviated by the forest-fringed waters of the perennial Ewaso Nyiro River.

It’s the best place to see a long list of localized dry-country mammals and birds whose range is limited to northern Kenya and bordering parts of Ethiopia and Somalia.

The Namunyak Wildlife Conservancy north of Samburu can be explored on exclusive multi-day camelback and walking safaris.

Arguably a safari in Kenya’s best-kept game-viewing secret, Meru National Park, holds out the possibility of seeing all the Big five in an unrestrained and little-visited wilderness of grassy plains and babbling jungle-lined streams.

Now accessible along a newly asphalted road running north all the way to the Ethiopian border, the underrated Marsabit National Park protects a volcanic massif that rises in verdant isolation from the surrounding arid plains.

Supporting a cover of lush forest and studded with pretty crater lakes, the park is also home to a good variety of wildlife, including some impressive tuskers.

One of Kenya’s most alluring off-the-beaten-track destinations, Lake Turkana is the world’s largest desert lake, its deep jade waters submerging the Rift Valley floor for 300km (186mi) from north to south.

Set in an ancient landscape of extinct volcanoes and naked lava flows, this forbidding lake supports the world’s largest concentration of Nile crocodiles.

It is also where several of the world’s oldest and most important hominid fossils have been unearthed.

The lake hinterland is of great cultural interest thanks to the presence of traditional and colorfully attired ethnic groups: the Rendille, Samburu, Turkana, and El Molo.

Practical Advice for a Northwest Kenya Safari Circuit

• The main airport in the region is Nanyuki Airport, which stands close to the eponymous town and is serviced by daily flights from the Masai Mara and Nairobi.
• Nanyuki is a short drive from most sites of interest in the region. Still, those heading on to more remote parts of Laikipia or Namunyak may need to charter an additional flight.
• Public reserves and parks are best visited on an organised safari, which can be arranged through any operator. Self-drive out of Nairobi is also a possibility.
• It’s pretty common to tag a visit to one or more of Laikipia, Meru, and/or Samburu-Buffalo Springs onto a southern safari taking in the likes of Masai Mara and Lake Nakuru.
• Any of the region’s three tree hotels – Treetops, The Ark, or Serena Mountain Lodge – would make for a great overnight break en route.
• Hikes on Mount Kenya are best arranged with specialist operators who know the mountain well.
• Upmarket lodges and tented camps can be found in all national parks and listed conservancies. Private lodges in Laikipia mainly cater to the top end of the safari market.
• Their standard offering is an all-inclusive package that covers transportation, meals, activities, and, in some cases, drinks. Most lodges in public reserves operate more like conventional hotels.

Rift Valley Lakes

The sheer basaltic cliffs of the Rift Valley northwest of Nairobi hem in a classic East African landscape of open savannah studded with jagged volcanic outcrops and strung with beautiful lakes.

Large mammals are less prolific than in the Masai Mara or Amboseli, but the area is renowned for its prolific birdlife.

The main attention-grabbers are the million-strong flocks of flamingos that frequently amass at saline lakes Nakuru and Bogoria.

Then again, the freshwater lakes Naivasha and Baringo vie with each other for the accolade of top general birding hotspot outside the national park system’.

Lake Nakuru National Park is one of the best places in East Africa to look for both Black and White rhinos, while the likes of Crescent Island, Hell’s Gate National Park, and Green Crater Lake Sanctuary offer fantastic opportunities to see large wildlife on foot.

Highlights of Rift Valley Lakes

Fringed by fever-tree forests and low mountains, freshwater Lake Naivasha, only 90km (56mi) northwest of Nairobi, provides a superb ornithological primer for East Africa. Resident birders talk glibly about ticking off 100 species before breakfast.

The shallows host large numbers of hippos, while Crescent Island offers the opportunity to walk amongst giraffes, buffalo, and waterbuck.

A popular afternoon treat is high tea at Elsamere Field Study Centre, which boasts a small museum dedicated to its former owner Joy Adamson of Born Free fame, and lovely lakeshore gardens frequented by black-and-white Colobus monkeys.

Named after the twin basaltic cliffs that guard its northern entrance, Hell’s Gate National Park protects a dramatic volcanic landscape of ancient lava plugs, sulphuric water vents, and obsidian outcrops.

It’s also one of the last places in East Africa where one can walk or bicycle unguided through herds of plains wildlife. Buffalo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, gazelle, and eland are resident, and elephant, lion, and cheetah pass through occasionally.

The Green Crater Lake Sanctuary is a private reserve centered on the hyper-alkaline Lake Songasoi, which owes its verdant cast to a dense concentration of Spirulina algae.

Nestled in a forested volcanic crater, the scenic lake often attracts large flocks of flamingos. Guided game walks or horseback excursions come with a good chance of spotting black-and-white Colobus monkeys, buffalo, and various antelope.

Samburu Springs and Mount Meru National Park

The cluster of national parks and reserves set in the semi-arid lowlands running broadly northeast from Mount Kenya includes some of the country’s most rewarding safari destinations.

In part, this is because they protect a very different fauna from their more southerly counterparts: not only an intriguing selection of localised dry-country large mammals, including reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, and gerenuk but also a long list of birds whose range is more-or-less confined to the north of Kenya and far south of Ethiopia.

The region’s best-known attraction is the near-contiguous trio of Samburu, Buffalo Springs, and Shaba National Reserves, which protect a combined area of 440km2 (170 square miles) flanking the perennial Ewaso Nyiro River as it flows through an otherwise austere landscape of scrubby rocky plains and bare termite mounds.

Less famous is the 870km2 (336 square mile) Meru National Park, whose cover of tropical grassland and savanna is bisected by a series of narrow perennial streams that rise in the central highlands and empty into the Tana River – Kenya’s longest waterway – as it runs along the park’s southern boundary.

Highlights of Samburu Springs and Mount Meru National Park

Named after the red-robed pastoralist people who inhabit the surrounding plains, Samburu National Reserve, set on the north bank of the Ewaso Nyiro, protects a relatively hilly tract of dry thornbush that rises to 1,250m (4,100ft) at Ol Doinyo Koitogorr.

Characteristic wildlife of the open plains includes the endangered Grevy’s zebra, which is far bulkier and more narrowly striped than the familiar common zebra, and the handsome reticulated giraffe, distinguished by its geometrically marked coat.

Dry-country antelope include Beisa oryx, Lesser kudu, Guenther’s dik-dik, and the bizarre stretch-necked gerenuk, which habitually stands erect on its hind legs to reach the leaves that most other antelope can’t.

Buffalo Springs Reserve, set on the south bank of the Ewaso Nyiro, supports a similar range of wildlife to facing Samburu.  It’s one of the more reliable places on a Kenya safari for leopard sightings, and the springs for which it’s named – a perennial marsh fed by underground water – attract plenty of wildlife in the dry season.

Situated on the south bank of the Ewaso Nyiro, only 5km (3,1mi) east of Buffalo Springs, the little-visited Shaba National Reserve is, if anything, even drier and more sparsely vegetated than its neighbors, but the range of wildlife is similar.

The main game-viewing loop runs through a mosaic of lava-strewn plains, parched grassland, and acacia woodland, offering glimpses of the river and passing by several hot springs.

In the far east, a spring-fed waterhole once used as a campsite by Joy Adamson now attracts a steady trickle of elephants, buffalo, lions, reticulated giraffes, Grevy’s zebra, and antelope.

A long list of avian specials whose range is largely restricted to northern Kenya and bordering parts of Somalia and/or Ethiopia makes Samburu-Buffalo Springs-Shaba a key site for bird-watching safaris in Kenya.

Literal heavyweights on this list include the Somali ostrich, Abyssinian ground hornbill, and the spectacular vulturine guinea fowl, and it’s the most reliable site in East Africa for Egyptian vultures.

Other specials include white-headed mousebird, Somali bee-eater, Golden pipit, Rufous chatterer, Bare-eyed thrush, Bristle-crowned starling, and Black-capped social weavers.

Running north from Samburu-Buffalo Springs, the 3,940km2 (1,521 square mile) Namunyak Wildlife Conservancy protects an area of arid northern plains surrounding the Mathews Range, whose forested slopes host plenty of wildlife and several rare plant species. The main attractions here are multi-day camelback and walking safaris.

More lush and moist in feel than Samburu-Buffalo Springs-Shaba, Meru National Park possesses a genuine wilderness atmosphere that makes it a favorite with repeat Kenya safari-goers.

All the Big Five are here. You can be pretty confident of seeing elephants, buffalo, and rhinos, but big cats are generally quite challenging to spot on the tall grassland.

The reticulated giraffe is very common, but other dry-country ungulates, such as Lesser kudu, Grevy’s zebra, Beisa oryx, and Gerenuk are relatively scarce.

The largest of 13 waterways running through Meru National Park, the palm lined Rojewero River flows through an excellent hippo pool. It is also a good place to look for African finfoot, Pel’s fishing owl, Giant kingfisher, and the endemic Golden palm weaver.

The boundary between Meru National Park and the remote Mwingi National Reserve is a lushly forested stretch of the Tana River. Here, the rapids known as Adamson’s Falls (after George Adamson) are the most accessible point anywhere along the course of what is Kenya’s largest waterway.

Meru National Park’s Ura River is the site of Elsa’s Grave, the burial place of the lioness subject of the film Born Free. Hand-reared as a pet by Joy and George Adamson, Elsa was released into Meru National Park in 1958 and successfully reared three cubs there before dying of a tick-borne fever at age five.

Practical Advice for Samburu Springs and Mount Meru National Park

• All the reserves and parks described above are best visited on an organised safari in Kenya, though self-drive is also a possibility. They can be reached in a long half-day drive from Nairobi via the frontier town of Isiolo or appended onto a safari, also taking in the likes of Masai Mara, Lake Nakuru, and the tree hotels of Aberdares and Mount Kenya.
• The closest airport for scheduled flights is Nanyuki, but charter flights directly to the reserves are available.
• Samburu-Buffalo Springs is serviced by a good range of lodges, tented camps, and campsites. There are also lodges and camps in Shaba and Meru, but fewer, which only adds to these reserves’ aura of exclusivity.

Southern Safari Circuit in Kenya

Southern Kenya offers some of the country’s finest wildlife viewing. The region is a showcase for three of East Africa’s most thrilling safari highlights: the migratory wildebeest that flood into the Masai Mara, the equally prolific flamingos, and the elephant herds that sweep across the Amboseli Plains below the snow-capped peak of Kilimanjaro.

While this region forms the core of most safari itineraries through Kenya, it also offers some great destinations for independent travel and off-the-beaten-track safaris in Kenya.

Lake Naivasha, Lake Baringo, Hell’s Gate, Kakamega Forest, and Saiwa are all perfectly accessible to self-drivers or those using public transport.

Highlights of a Southern Safari Circuit in Kenya

Renowned for its dense population of well-habituated elephants, Amboseli National Park, above the Tanzanian border at the northern base of Mount Kilimanjaro, is the best place to photograph plains wildlife below its majestic and photogenic snow-capped peak.

Kenya’s most prominent safari destination is the Masai Mara National Reserve, the most northerly component in an immense cross-border ecosystem that incorporates Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains and forms the arena for the spectacular annual migration of two million migratory wildebeest.

The Masai Mara peaks in popularity between August and November, when the wildebeest cross over from Tanzania, but offers fabulous Big Five safaris and predator-viewing all year round.

A superb base for keen walkers, birdwatchers, and independent budget travelers, scenic Lake Naivasha offers enough activities to keep you busy for a week.

You can walk amongst big games on Crescent Island or in the nearby – and wonderfully scenic – Hell’s Gate National Park and Green Crater Lake Sanctuary.

More challenging is the hike up the barely vegetated slopes of Mount Longonot, a 2,776m (9,108ft) high volcano that last erupted in the 1860s and whose summit offers fine views in all directions.

Although it’s no longer a reliable site for the flamingos that used to amass in its shallows, peri-urban Lake Nakuru is set within a small national park that offers a good chance of spotting both Black and White rhinos in the course of one game drive.

Often home to hundreds of thousands of flamingos, Lake Bogoria National Reserve is also noteworthy for the dramatic hot geysers that erupt close to its western shore.

A top-notch birding destination, freshwater Lake Baringo is also home to plenty of hippos and crocs and has a refreshingly off-the-beaten-track feel.

The southwest of Kenya is occupied by Lake Victoria, which it shares with Uganda and Tanzania. This is the largest lake in Africa at 66,800 km2 (2579 square miles), but its Kenyan portion is poorly developed for tourism and suited only to fans of genuinely off-the-beaten-track travel.

A contender for Kenya’s most underrated attraction, Kakamega Forest National Reserve protects the country’s largest stand of the equatorial rainforest. It’s easily explored on foot, and its diverse fauna possesses strong affiliations to Central Africa.

A tally of seven primate species includes black-and-white Colobus, Blue and red-tailed monkeys, and the nocturnal Potto.

The checklist of 360 bird species has more than 30 forest-dwellers found nowhere else in Kenya, among them the spectacular Great blue turaco.

Another underrated pedestrian-friendly gem is the tiny Saiwa Swamp National Park. Traversed by a walking trail that leads to a series of wooden viewing platforms, it’s possibly the best place in Africa to observe the semi-aquatic Sitatunga antelope and white-bearded DeBrazza’s monkey. A long list of forest and swamp birds includes the gorgeous Ross’s turaco.

Practical Advice for a Southern Safari Circuit in Kenya

• The most straightforward way to explore the Masai Mara, Amboseli, and to a lesser extent, Lake Nakuru is on a fly-in safari combining one or all of these destinations with other national parks and reserves elsewhere in Kenya.
• It’s also possible to drive into and between reserves, a more affordable option that will entail a lot of time spent on dusty roads getting from A to B. Most other destinations within this region are less remote and quite easily reached by car or by using public transport.
• Accommodations to suit most tastes and budgets can be found throughout the region. These range from exclusive tented camps and larger hotels-like lodges in and around the national parks and reserves to agreeable budget lodgings in more accessible destinations.

The Coastal Belt

Kenya’s gorgeous Indian Ocean coastline is the ideal place to chill out on the beach after a few days on a dusty safari. It is lined with a seemingly endless succession of white sandy beaches that look like they’ve leaped straight out of the pages of a travel brochure.

Indeed, for a country often billed as the ultimate home of the safari, Kenya can also claim to be one of the world’s great beach destinations. Better still, there is much more to the Kenyan coast than a stock tropical beach holiday.

Most coastal towns and villages possess a strong sense of place, determined both by the cultural cohesion of the Swahili people who inhabit them and the antiquity of medieval trade ports such as Mombasa, Malindi, and the jungle-bound ruins of Gedi.

The offshore reefs, alive with colorful fish, offer world-class snorkeling and diving. At the same time, coastal forests protected in the likes of Shimba Hills National Reserve and endemic-rich Arabuko-Sokoke National Park are rich in terrestrial birds and mammals.

Deeper inland, the vast plains of Tsavo East and West National Parks – which together form the country’s largest contiguous protected area – offer fine Big five game-viewing in a classic African safari setting.

Highlights of The Coastal Belt of Kenya

The historic island port of Mombasa is Kenya’s second-largest city and the central air, rail, and road gateway to the coast. Its atmospheric old town is capped by the 16m (52ft) high Fort Jesus, which has stood sentinel over the old harbor since the Portuguese constructed it in the 1590s.

Arguably the most popular and best-equipped tourist destination on the Kenyan coast, Diani doubles as an idyllic palm-fringed beach resort and base for some fine marine and terrestrial wildlife viewing.

The rolling slopes of Shimba Hills National Reserve, inland of Diani, support giraffes, zebra, warthog, elephant, buffalo, and sable antelope.

Situated to the south of Diani, only 10km (6,2mi) from the Tanzanian border, Shimoni is a low-key fishing village whose name – “Place of the Hole” – alludes to a gloomy beachfront cave that once served as a holding pen for slaves before they were shipped to Zanzibar. Chains and hooks dating to the cave’s ignominious past are still embedded in the walls.

Kenya’s most overt resort town, Malindi, has a delightful beach and lively Italian-influenced culinary scene, but it’s also scattered with landmarks that recall its long history as a medieval Swahili port and 16th-century Portuguese stronghold.

Arguably the most beautiful beach resort in Kenya, low-key Watamu is known for its superb offshore snorkeling and proximity to the jungle-bound Gedi National Monument and endemic-rich Arabuko-Sokoke National Park.

The remote and little-visited 28km2 (11 square mile) Tana River Primate Reserve protects an isolated stretch of riverine forest that supports the only known populations of two critically endangered species of endemic monkey: Tana River red colobus and Tana mangabey.

The sleepy and remote Lamu Archipelago is liberally endowed with idyllic beaches and snorkel sites, but its main attraction is Lamu Town, a traditional Swahili enclave whose unique architectural and cultural integrity has led to it being inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visits are not currently recommended due to security concerns relating to its proximity to Somalia.

The vast Tsavo West National Park, bounded by the main road between Nairobi and Mombasa, is an untrammeled Big Five destination notable for its wilderness atmosphere, dramatic volcanic landscapes, and dense population of Black rhino protected within the well-guarded Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary.

Larger even than the eastern namesake it borders, Tsavo East National Park protects a wonderfully remote habitat of red-earth plains bisected by the perennial Galana River and inhabited by plentiful elephants, along with an alluring variety of localized dry-country birds and mammals.

Ideal for beach holidaymakers seeking a one-night safari break, the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary, which borders Tsavo West, offers stellar elephant viewing, as well as a good range of other plains wildlife, including lion and leopard.

Practical Advice for The Coastal Belt of Kenya

• The main gateway to the region is Mombasa, whose Moi International Airport is serviced by a steady stream of domestic and international flights. Mombasa is also connected to Nairobi by a direct 480km (298mi) road flanked by Tsavo West and East National Parks and a historic railway line that started operating in the 1890s.
• There are also regular flights to Malindi and Lamu, or you can travel by road between Mombasa and Diani, Malindi, or Watamu. Visits to Tsavo West and East National Parks, Shimba Hills National Reserve and Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary are best arranged with operators, though self-drive is a possibility for the intrepid.
• Accommodation is plentiful throughout the region, though it tends to be pricey in the national parks and more exclusive beach resorts. Good budget accommodation is available in Mombasa and Malindi.

Tsavo East and West

Extending over 21,812km2 (8421 square miles), both Tsavo East and West form the largest conservation area in Kenya, protecting significant populations of all the Big Five.

Despite this, the parks are less popular than the Masai Mara and Amboseli due to the relatively low wildlife densities and difficulty spotting animals in the dense acacia woodland.

Separated somewhat arbitrarily by the main road between Nairobi and Mombasa, the two parks are nevertheless quite different in character.

Tsavo West protects a volcanic landscape of jagged black outcrops, solidified lava flows, and tangled acacia woodland overshadowed by Kilimanjaro on the southwest horizon.

The red-earth plains of the larger and less developed Tsavo East have stronger affiliations with the semi-arid badlands of northern Kenya, despite being alleviated by the presence of the perennial Galana River.

Both parks have a limitless wilderness atmosphere that will appeal to repeat safari-goers, with the western component being marginally better for conventional Big Five viewing. At the same time, its eastern counterpart ranks higher for localized antelope and bird species associated with northern Kenya.

Highlights of Tsavo East and West in Kenya

The Shetani Lava Flow is the most spectacular of the many stark volcanic landmarks that scar the northern circuit of Tsavo West.

A 200-year-old stream of jagged tar-coloured solidified magma, its Swahili name means ‘Devil’. It’s avoided by locals, whose oral traditions recall that many people and animals were buried alive beneath the fast-flowing fiery lava when it erupted from the nearby Chyulu Hills.

At once immensely beautiful and a fascinating geological phenomenon, the oasis-like Mzima Springs is fed by a sparkling clear subterranean stream that rises on Kilimanjaro before being filtered through the porous volcanic rocks of the Chyulu Hills.

The primary source of water for Mombasa, Mzima supports a lush groundwater forest of palms and fever trees, plenty of woodland and aquatic birds, and a few pods of hippos that can sometimes be observed underwater from a submerged observation chamber.

Created in 1986 to protect the Tsavo West’s last few Black rhinos, Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary is enclosed by a tall electric fence and guarded by a dedicated anti-poaching unit.

The sanctuary has five waterholes and now supports a population of around 70 Black rhinos (roughly one per square kilometer), which means the chances of spotting this elusive creature are excellent.

A shallow sump-like waterbody set in the far south of Tsavo West below Tanzania’s North Pare Mountains, Lake Jipe attracts plenty of elephants and supports large numbers of hippos and crocodiles. Boat trips offer an opportunity to see localized aquatic birds such as Lesser jacana, Pygmy goose, and Black coucal.

Lake Chala is a translucent crater lake situated on the southern foot slopes of Kilimanjaro bordering Tanzania. Almost 3km (1.9mi) in diameter, yet practically invisible until you topple over the caldera’s rim, wherein it nestles, the lake is gorgeous when Kilimanjaro emerges from the clouds on the northern horizon.

Rising to 2,208m (7,244ft) on the border of Tsavo West, the isolated Taita Hills is the only Kenyan component of the Eastern Arc Mountains, a series of 13 massifs whose ancient forests are known for their high level of endemism.

It is renowned among birdwatchers as the only place to see the Critically Endangered Taita thrush, along with Taita apalis, Taita white-eye, and Taita falcon.

Sharing an unfenced border with Tsavo West, Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary lies on the scrubby plains below the mountains after which it is misleadingly named.

It’s most often visited on a standalone overnight safari package from the coast, inclusive of day and night drives – the latter offering a good chance of spotting secretive nocturnal species such as leopard, White-tailed mongoose, Honey badger, and Genet. The quirkily stilted Salt Lick Lodge is wonderfully positioned for in-house elephant viewing.

A significant focal point for game-viewing in Tsavo East is Aruba Dam, which was constructed on the Voi River in 1951 and is the only permanent water source in the vicinity.

Lions are often seen resting below the trees around the dam, while the road running west towards Voi Gate is an excellent place to look for cheetahs, impala, Coke’s hartebeest, zebra, and gazelle.

The arid plains running north towards the Galana River pass through scrubby plains that support several localized dry-country creatures, notably Gerenuk, Fringe-eared oryx, Somali ostrich, Golden pipit, Vulturine guineafowl, and Golden-breasted starling.

The most significant landmark on the Galana River as it runs through Tsavo East is Lugard Falls, a series of rapids that flows across a bed of black dolomite striated with white quartzite rocks. A good hippo pool stands a short way downriver of the falls.

A significant landmark in Tsavo East, the 1.5km (0,93mi) long Mudanda Rock – East Africa’s answer to Ayer’s Rock – overlooks a waterhole where elephant and buffalo gather to drink and wallow, and leopards sometimes emerge towards dusk.

Practical Advice for Tsavo East and West in Kenya

• Road access to both Tsavo East and West is straightforward since the two parks are bisected by the Nairobi-Mombasa highway, which also forms the border between them.
• Tsavo West is often incorporated into a southern road safari out of Nairobi or running between Nairobi and the coast, together with Amboseli. Tsavo East is perhaps more often visited as a standalone road excursion from coastal resorts such as Malindi or Mombasa, as is the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary.
• In all instances, it’s best to make arrangements with an experienced safari company, though self-drive out of Nairobi or Mombasa is a possibility too, and charter flights service both national parks.
• Tsavo East and West and Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary are all served by a selection of upmarket lodges and tented Camps.  Budget accommodation can be found in the towns of Voi or Mtito Andei, which stand alongside the Nairobi-Mombasa highway close to the main gates for Tsavo East and West, respectively.

Watamu and Malinda

Like Mombasa, Malindi is an ancient Swahili trading port that fell under Portuguese influence in the 16th century. It is far smaller and more low-rise than Mombasa and has a less conspicuous sense of antiquity, though the old town is scattered with a few important historical landmarks.

These days, Malindi, more than any other comparably large town in Kenya, functions mainly as a beach resort. It offers a good choice of midrange lodges aimed at the European package market, as well as a lively beachfront restaurant scene and a host of other urban distractions, from nightclubs to supermarkets.

Separated from Malindi by 15km (9,3mi) of Indian Ocean frontage, Watamu feels less like a resort town than an overgrown fishing village and is all the better for it.

Boasting arguably the most gorgeous beach in Kenya, Watamu also offers superb offshore snorkeling in the calm, transparent waters of Turtle Bay. It stands practically within walking distance of the jungle-bound ruined medieval city of Gedi and forest wildlife of Arabuko-Sokoke National Park.

Highlights of Watamu and Malinda

The most significant monuments in Malindi Old Town are a pair of 15th-century pillar tombs standing in front of the seafront Friday Mosque and a small, thatched chapel built by the Portuguese in the early 16th century.

The limestone Da Gama Cross, erected by the pioneering Portuguese navigator Vasco Da Gama after he landed at Malindi in 1499, stands on a windswept coral peninsula a short walk south of the town center.

The National Museum of Malindi is housed in the three-story waterfront ‘House of Columns’ built by an Indian trader circa 1890. Displays include a stuffed 77kg (170lb) coelacanth and a collection of engraved Gohu burial totems.

Malindi and Watamu have good sandy swimming beaches, but the latter’s Turtle Bay stands out scenically, thanks to a distinctive forest of ragged coral formations that rise out of the preposterously clear water like giant mushrooms.

Africa’s oldest marine reserve, Malindi Marine National Reserve, protects 213km2 (82 square miles) of offshore reefs and open water, running south from Malindi to Mida Creek. It offers some of East Africa’s finest marine wildlife viewing, with the tranquil coral gardens of Watamu’s Turtle Bay ideal for snorkeling, while diving is usually undertaken on the more extensive barrier reefs further out to sea.

Separated from the open sea by the Watamu Peninsula, Mida Creek is an essential marine bird-watching site that can be explored on a stilted boardwalk and small hide constructed as part of a community-based ecotourism project.

A vital wintering site for Palaearctic migrants such as Crab plover and Grey plover, it is also a good place for Mangrove kingfisher and Greater flamingo. The surrounding coastal scrub hosts the less striking, but very rare, Sokoke pipit.

The 420km2 (162 square mile) Arabuko-Sokoke National Park protects East Africa’s largest remaining tract of coastal forest and a host of globally threatened and near-endemic mammals and birds, including Ader’s duiker, Sokoke dog mongoose, Yellow-rumped elephant-shrew, Chestnut-fronted helmetshrike, Clarke’s weaver and Sokoke scops owl.

Large fresh paths often seen on the park’s extensive network of roads and walking trails serve to remind that it’s also home to a furtive and seldom-seen population of 120 elephants.

The most impressive and atmospheric of the many medieval ruins along the Kenyan coast, Gedi National Monument protects the remains of a 20-hectare walled Swahili city-state that flourished as a cabinet of maritime trade between the 11th and 13th centuries.

The museum displays artifacts found on site but manufactured from as far afield as India, Egypt, Arabia, and Spain, and the jungle-bound ruins include a 900m2 (9,688 square foot) Sultan’s Palace and eight mosques. A birdwatching platform high in a baobab tree between the palace and the largest mosque offers a superb monkey’s-eye overview of the site.

Also known as Hell’s Kitchen, the Marafa Depression, 35km (22mi) northwest of Malindi, is studded with spectacular sandstone pillars that stand up to 30m (98ft) tall and come across like a miniature version of the Grand Canyon. It is most impressive in the early morning when the layered columns glow pink.

Practical Advice for Watamu and Malinda in Kenya

• Watamu and Malindi lie about a 90-minute drive north of Mombasa. There are also scheduled flights from Mombasa, Lamu, and Nairobi to Malindi, whose airport lies 3km (1,9mi) from the town centre and less than 20km (12mi) from Watamu.
• Both towns have plenty of accommodation. Malindi is stronger on package hotels and budget accommodation aimed at backpackers, while Watamu’s hotels tend to have a more individualistic feel.
• Any hotel or local operator can set up diving and snorkeling excursions or day trips to Gedi, Arabuko-Sokoke, or the Marafa Depression.

Birding Safaris